January 25, 26 Alvear Palace Hotel
Buenos Aires
January 26 Buenos Aires tour: Pedro Werberg
January 27 Crystal Symphony   Embarkation 12:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Depart Buenos Aires 6:00 p.m.
January 28 Montevideo 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour: MVD-D City Highlights & Bouza Winery
January 29 At sea
January 30 Puerto Madryn 8:00 a.m. – 4:45 p.m.
Crystal Tour: PUM-D Punta Tombo Coastal Wildlife Exploration
January 31 At sea
February 1 Port Stanley
February 2 At sea
February 3 Cruising Antarctica
February 4 Cruising Antarctica
February 5 Cruising Antarctica
February 6 At sea
February 7 Cape Horn/Ushuaia 2:00 p.m. – 12 midnight
Crystal Tour USH-B Beagle Channel by Catamaran
February 8 Ushuaia/at sea 12 midnight – 7:00 a.m.
February 9 Punta Arenas 6:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.
February 10 At sea
February 11 At sea
February 12 Puerto Montt 8:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour PMC-E River Rafting on the Petrohue
Crystal Tour PMC-G Mountains, Lakes & Waterfalls
February 13 At sea
February 14 Valparaiso – end of segment – 7:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour VLP-DI Fine Arts Museum & Tea at Villa Victoria Heritage Center
February 15 Coquimbo 7:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour CQQ-B Elqui Valley & Tololo Observatory
February 16 At sea
February 17 Arica 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.
February 18 At sea
February 19 Pisco 8:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour PIO-A Ballestas Island Motor Boat Cruise
February 20 Lima 7:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.
February 21 Salaverry 1:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour SVT-B Dragon Temple, Chan Chan & Little Reed Horses
February 22 At sea
February 23 Quayaquil 6:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour GUY-D – The Artists of Guayaquil
February 24 Manta noon – 11:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour MEC-A Cancebi Museum & The Village of Montecristi
February 25 At sea
February 26 Panama City noon – midnight
Crystal Tour PAC-E The Presidential Palace & Colonial Panama
February 27 Panama City/Panama Canal
February 28 Cartagena noon – 10:00 p.m.
Crystal Tour CTG-LC Bay Cruise & Historic Walled City Walk
February 29 Santa Marta 8:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.
March 1 At sea
March 2 Ocho Rios 7:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
March 3 At sea
March 4 Key West 11:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.
March 5 Miami – disembark 8:00 a.m.

It won’t be long before we leave for Buenos Aires and a new adventure on the Crystal Symphony.  I will, hopefully, be able to keep a blog on this sailing as we have quite a few sea days.

We arranged to be picked up by a water taxi at the Ca Sagredo, our hotel’s dock, at 1:00 p.m. which meant we had time to enjoy a drink on the terrace for one last time.  The water taxi arrived a bit early and our bags were quickly loaded onboard.  We stood at the back of the taxi and became completely immersed in the surreal water world of Venice.

We were taken to a dock at the Stazione Marittima in the same area as the Crystal Serenity.  Porters and Crystal personnel met the water taxi.  We had a very short walk to the terminal and, within minutes, were boarding the ship for our first Crystal cruise.  We were greeted by a variety of staff and crew.  Our hand baggage was taken by a crew member who showed us where we could leave the bags. We checked the hand luggage in at a table on Deck 5 and we did not see it again until it was in our cabin.  We really appreciated this service as usually we carry the bags from place to place until the cabin is ready.  As was noted in our pre-cruise documents, the cabins were not ready until 3:00 p.m. but lunch was available on Deck 12.  First, we went up to deck 13, received a tour of the gym and the spa and I booked a spa appointment.  Then, after a quick bite to eat from the Trident Grill on Deck 12, we went down to our cabin where our bags were waiting on the bed.  When we walked in to the cabin, we couldn’t help but compare it to our basic suite on Regent.  It was going to take some time to get used to the Crystal Serenity in a 269 sq. ft. cabin (verandah included). The whole cabin area is open and, as we tend to have different hours, we weren’t sure how we’d be able to move about without disturbing the other person. There was also a storage space issue; where could we possibly fit all of the clothes that we had brought for our extended journey?  The closet was not walk-in and, from the exterior, appeared tiny (looks can be deceiving).  There did not appear to be many drawers or storage compartments.  Our next concern was the living area.  The love seat appeared tiny (sometimes, looks are not deceiving).   Well, we kept an open mind and I am pleased to report that our three suitcases full of clothes and all of our shoes fit within the allocated space.  We switched  most of the wooden hangars for the smaller metal type and made use of every inch of the closet.  Although I didn’t like the design of the closet, it worked.

The love seat was small and only fit one of us comfortably unless all of the pillows were removed. However, there was always the chair or the bed and we didn’t spend time sitting together on the love seat so it really didn’t matter.

The ship was gorgeous and the public area look exactly how they are depicted in the brochures.  Having a promenade deck to walk laps was a bonus. For those who prefer inside exercise facilities, the gym was well equipped and offered wonderful ocean views.  There were a variety of programs offered both indoors and on the promenade deck for those who were interested in classes.
The service was exceptional; attentive but not intrusive, and the crew/staff obviously took great pride in providing the best service possible.  It was also a pleasure to sail with the Crystal Society Host, Eduardo Molina.
The main dining room, Prego and Silk Road provided us with the best meals we have ever had at sea (which is truly a compliment as we have had many delicious meals on other ships).  There were little extras that Crystal provided to enhance the dining experience.  For example, in Silk Road, one could choose to have a flight (three types) of cold saki, as well as other drinks typically provided in a Japanese restaurant.  One could choose from a rolls/sushi/sashimi menu and/or choose to order from a full menu developed by Nobu Matsuhisa.  We appreciated that meals were individually paced and that the wait staff seemed to do this intuitively.
We had the Open Dining by Reservation option and booked most of our dining times before we boarded.  We easily changed one dining time the same night we were to have dinner because we wanted to attend other events.  It was not, however, flexible the way you experience with full open dining.  There were a few other options available.  For example, a reservation was not necessary for the Sushi Bar and it was on a first come/first served basis. (On this cruise, it was packed and was difficult to get a seat unless you were flexible as to what time you ate.)  Tastes was also open on about half of the evenings for casual poolside dining.
As we were on a port intensive itinerary, we made little use of the options for day time dining. There were four locations available for breakfast including a Late-Risers Breakfast offered from 10:00 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.  There were also four locations available for lunch; an ice cream bar; a bistro; and afternoon tea.  Late night snacks were available from 11:00 p.m. – 12:00 midnight.  If you were still hungry or if you wanted to eat in your cabin, room service was available 24 hours.
Daytime activities included Computer University @ Sea, a library, the Studio – language and/or music lessons, art classes, enrichment lectures, golf nets, paddle tennis, a movie theatre, a casino and a variety of bars.
Shore excursions were handled really well.  Tickets were provided in the stateroom and stated where and when to meet. Times were staggered and specific tours were announced.  Bottled water was available.  People on each tour followed Crystal personnel holding a sign with a number to the allocated transportation.  The Crystal representative stayed with the bus for the whole tour.  With the exception of one time, our tour guides were all excellent.  They were passionate and engaging.  They also tried to keep the tours paced to fit the majority of the group.
We met some wonderful people; the ship was first class; and our experience  exceeded our expectations.  We will be back!

Although we were exhausted upon our arrival in Venice, taking the water taxi from the airport to the hotel was the perfect antidote. We stood outside the small cabin and watched enthralled as we made our way across the water highway from the mainland and through the smaller canals of Venice. It was like nothing we have ever seen, anywhere.

Our water taxi pulled up to the dock/patio of our hotel, Ca Sagredo. As with many of the buildings that line the canal, the hotel did not look like much from the outside. In the interior, we found a combination of a museum and an art gallery; gorgeous murals, paintings, architecture, and staff who were obviously proud of their surroundings.

We were early so our room was not ready. It was not, however, too early to enjoy a glass of wine on the terrace. We sat mesmerized by the scene in front of us – the Grand Canal. To the left was a gondola station; to the right was a vaporetti stop; across the river was the market; and everywhere we looked was a panoramic photograph waiting to be taken.

Our room was ready shortly before the check in time of 2:00 p.m. What a room! We were taken to Room 204, the Sala di Sebastiano Ricci (now called the Historical Grand Suite). The whole ceiling was a stuccoed masterpiece; antique furniture/fabrics/decor and Murano glass replicated the ambiance of the 17th century. The modern bathroom appeared to be recently renovated and provided us with the luxurious amenities one finds in any five star hotel. Windows that opened allowed us views over Campo Santa Sofia as well as side views of the Grand Canal and the gondola station.

After spending many hours walking the districts in Venice, we concluded that the Ca Sagredo location on the Grand Canal was perfect for us. The Piazza San Marco, in the heart of the tourist area, was always congested and filled with tourists and tour groups. Piazzale Roma, the area where conventional transportation (roads and rails), was also extremely busy. The Ca Sagredo’s central location between Piazza San Marco and Piazzale Roma was much quieter yet, within a couple of minutes, we were in the shopping area on the way to the Rialto Bridge. There were many trattorias and other eateries for when we wanted to leave the hotel.
We had a fabulous chef’s choice dinner created by Chef Klostermaier at the Ca Sagredo L’Alcova restaurant. The giant shrimp in a caramelized sauce was a highlight and is something that I will try to reproduce once I am home.
We made the most of our time in Venice and walked through the majority of the city. It was stunningly beautiful and every corner, nook and cranny, had some hidden gem just waiting to be found. When we first arrived, we met a couple who were just leaving. They told us to follow the crowds and we would never be lost. It was true. However, we also decided after our first day to spend some time not following crowds and getting lost wandering the back streets. We felt like we were immersed in the “real” Venice. We also took a gondola ride and would not hesitate to take another one if we were to return to Venice. (A word of caution for first time visitors to Venice, make sure that you arrange to be picked up and dropped off at the same stop.)

 

In 2008, we had booked the 2009 Regent Seven Seas Navigator cruise from Istanbul to Fort Lauderdale. In August of 2009, we received notification that the Navigator was going in to early drydock and would not be sailing with passengers after Rome.  One of the compensation packages that Regent Seven Seas Cruises very generously offered was to transfer our booking to the Seven Seas Voyager cruise from Mumbai to Fort Lauderdale.  Once we made sure our work schedules could be rearranged, we quickly accepted the offer.  We made the right choice!

In Mumbai, we booked a room at the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower hotel.  We arranged transfers from the airport through the hotel and our car was there to pick us upon arrival.  Due to the bombings last year, when we arrived at the hotel, we had to clear security much like the security at an airport before we could enter the hotel.  We were taken to our room for check-in.  All the paperwork, etc. was prepared before we arrived.  Lovely!  We had a perfect location on the 15^th floor and overlooked the Gateway to India.  The Palace section was still not fully open as repairs from the bombing had not been completed, but the areas we did see were magnificent.  The pool area was spectacular but I’m not sure it would be large enough to accommodate all guests when the whole hotel is open.  The restaurants were excellent.  This would definitely be our first choice of accommodations if we were to return to Mumbai.

Our room in the Taj Mahal hotel.

View of the Gateway to India from our room.

The swimming pool at the Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai.

As we had arrived in Mumbai ahead of time, we did not book our transfers to the ship through Regent Seven Seas Cruises.  We arranged a transfer to the port through the hotel.  On arrival at the port we, along with all of the other non-Regent transfers, were held at the gate as no “private cars” were being allowed to the ship.  After some discussion between the group of drivers and the police, we were eventually allowed through.  Upon arrival at the ship, our bags were quickly taken by the ship’s crew.  The Voyager was to be our home for the next forty-six days and it felt good to be home.

I wanted the header photograph to portray why I am so passionate about travel.  This photograph of the morning scene in Zanzibar seemed the perfect choice.  Here is what I wrote when we were there on our Regent Voyager cruise in November 2009.

Zanzibar 90F/32C, mix of sun and clouds, hot and humid

I woke to a change in movement of the ship and I thought I had missed us coming into port.  I hadn’t.  The sky was filled with purple and pink powder puff clouds.   The ocean was as calm as a lake on a breeze free, early summer morning.  I felt like I had somehow been transported to another world, one I had never heard about.  There was the smell of salt water, fish and spice.  Little islands dotted the landscape and I could see beautiful beaches in the distance.  There were dhows, small boats, fishing boats, tug boats, yachts, ferries and freighters. The city was coming to life.   I was mesmerized.

At the dock, we were once again met by music and dancers.  The market was being set up.  Passengers were shopping as soon as the ship cleared.

We went on the Sultan Heritage tour which was not exactly as described in the tour booklet but was excellent.  The busses were small and ours could have held about twenty passengers.  The guides, dressed in kanzus (a white garment that covers from neck to ground) and kofias (the small hats), were all standing outside the vans holding numbers on sticks so that we could find the correct busses. We had fourteen passengers, a driver, and our guide, Taib, who said to call him Mr. T (though he said a smaller version and with no bling).  Taib was a fantastic guide and he managed to convey the history, traditions and culture of his island during our four hour tour.  We began with a drive past the market.  All of the women we saw on the street were dressed in either a buibui (worn over a dress) or khanga (the two piece outfit that covers from head to waist and then from waist to ankles).  Some barely had their eyes showing, others revealed their whole face.  The men were mainly dressed in pants and shirts and many wore  kofias.  We proceeded to the Anglican Church Cathedral (the former slave market site).  The church continues to be used and the woodwork, artwork, and second oldest organ in Africa were in remarkable condition.  History of the East Africa slave trade was brought to life as we were taken to the underground chambers where slaves were held.  Taib stated bluntly what life was like for the slaves, how their worth was determined, and the conditions and treatment they were subjected to by the slave traders/owners.  Outside in the courtyard, is a sculpture project by Clara Sornas in “Memory For The Slaves”.  It was an intense, moving experience.

We got back on the bus and drove past, or stopped to look at from the bus, a variety of historical buildings.  Taib gave a detailed overview of what we seeing as well as answered questions.

We then drove to the interior of the island to the village of Kizimbani.  As we got off the bus, we were greeted by boys who wanted to “give us” palm leaf ties, palm leaves made into holders that were filled with small flowers, palm leave hats/etc. and have us “give them” money in exchange.  The group of boys follow the same group throughout the tour of the village.  First, we were taken to a nutmeg tree and were shown how to open a nutmeg as well as to tell if it was ready.  Then, it was time to learn about cinnamon.  We continued on our way learning about a variety of the trees and fruits growing.  We stopped at the Muslim Koranic school (matrassa) and the children gave a recital.  There were no desks, chairs, pens or paper.  The boys sat on the floor on one side; the girls sat on the floor on the other side.  Surprisingly, we were told we could take photographs.   From there, we went and watched how to build a mud house and palm frond roof, traditional food preparation, and to learn about vanilla pods.  Finally, we ended up at the village spice market where there are a whole variety of spices to purchase.  They are more expensive than in town but we were told we would be supporting the village cooperative if we bought them at the village.  We bought some though I don’t know if customs will allow them to be brought into the country.

Stopping at the shops was not part of this tour but some of the passengers asked if it would be possible.  Taib had the bus stop at an air conditioned, set price shop that had a clean washroom.  Those who wanted to shop could stay and walk back to the ship.  Those who did not want to stay were taken back to the ship by the bus.  The shop was Memories of Zanzibar.  I’m not much of a shopper, but we took two bags filled with items back to the ship.  Prices were excellent for quality goods.  Many others shopped at the market at the dock where they could barter and were happy with their choice.  The walk back to the ship was along a magnificent waterfront and personal safety was not an issue.  We were approached a couple of times and asked if we wanted to buy CD’s or shirts, but were not harassed at all.  We came across Mercury’s Zanzibar whose claim to fame was Freddy Mercury was born on Zanzibar.  We drank local beer while sitting overlooking the ocean.  The Voyager was in the background.  The locals were friendly.  The beer was ice cold and exactly what we needed in the high heat/humidity.  Perfect!  We slowly walked back to the dock and ran into Taib who treated us as if we were his long lost old friends.  We wished we had longer to explore this fascinating port.   Zanzibar, the land of magic, cast its spell on us.